Glossary

Bezel Set: Type of setting that has the metal encircle the gem. The gem is actually grooved into the metal. A very safe type of setting.

Blemishes: Characteristics on a diamonds surface that will determine its clarity grade

Some of the more common blemishes are listed below:

extra facet
natural
nick
surface graining

Brilliance: The amount of white light that reflects out from a gem’s surface. By cutting a diamond to the correct proportions, a lapidary maximizes its brilliance.

Brilliant Cut: This term generally refers to a round diamond that contains 57 or 58 facets. However, this term can also be used to describe oval, pear, marquise, radiant, or heart shape diamonds.

Carat: Represents the unit weight of a diamond. One carat is equivalent to 1/5 of a gram.

Center Stone: Refers to the center gem of an item. Usually the largest stone in a ring.

Channel Set: Describes diamond(s) that are set in a row between two bars of metal. Generally speaking considered on of the safest types of setting to wear.

Clarity: A grade measuring evaluation that references the internal characteristics of a gem. When referring to diamonds the clarity rating ranges from Flawless (absolutely no visible inclusions) to I3

(describes a diamond with many eye-visible flaws.) (See 4’cs of buying a diamond)

Cloud: A cluster of tiny inclusions in a diamond. Generally one of the more difficult inclusions to find in a diamond.

Color: A grade measuring evaluation that describes the body color of a diamond. This color scale ranges form D (absolutely no hints of color present) to Z (an obviously yellow or brown diamond)

(See 4’Cs of buying a diamond)

Comfort Fit: When a ring’s inner lining has a slightly rounded interior. Generally used on men’s wedding rings for comfort. You want your man’s ring to be as comfortable as possible, so that he has no excuses if he is caught taking it off!

Consignment: Refers to the industry practice of “loaning” diamonds to credentialed firms. In most of these agreements, the vendor will only invoice a diamond if the borrowing firm sells the diamond. Diamond prices are generally higher in this sort of arrangement.

Crown Angle: The angle measurement that refers to the crown height (top area of the diamond) in relation to the girdle (middle section). It is usually referred in terms of a percentage in relation to a 90° angle. The standard crown angle on a diamond is 341/2°. Too much of a variance from this standard may affect the sparkle of a diamond.

Culet: The very bottom tip of a diamond. Medium to large culets may negatively impact the light return in a diamond.

Cut: Commonly refers to the shape of a diamond. It is also used to evaluate the proportions of a diamond and determining the geometric proportions of the diamond. (See the 4’Cs of buying a diamond)

Some of the more common terms when evaluating the cut of a diamond are:

Ideal Cut
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor

Depth: The total depth of a diamond. Measures from the table (top) facet to the culet (bottom point). Generally is noted as a percentage in relation to the circumference (diameter) of a diamond. (See ideal cut diamonds)

Eye-clean: A diamond that has no visible inclusions when examined by the unaided eye.

Emerald: A greenish gemstone. (Not to be confused with an Emerald Cut diamond). May’s Birthstone, Emeralds are generally posses many inclusions, price and value are judged by their color. (See Featured Gems)

Facet: The flat polished surface of a diamond. Most round brilliant cut diamonds have 58 facets.

Fire: Light that is dispersed within a diamond. Fire is maximized by cutting a diamond to its correct proportions. (See ideal cut diamonds)

Fluorescence: The intangible element in a diamond that gives some diamonds a (generally) blue or yellow glow when exposed to ultraviolet light. (See Frequently asked questions)

GIA: The Gemological Institute of America is recognized internationally as the foremost authority in gemology. This non-profit organization has offices globally, and trains future gemologists in two major locations in the U.S., Carlsbad, California and New York City. Also see www.gia.edu.

Girdle: The center section of a diamond. It can generally be seen holding a diamond in the tweezers with the culet (bottom) and table (top) facets of the diamond. The girdle will appear as a band around the width of the diamond. Some girdles are faceted but not all. (See 4C’s of buying a diamond)

Some of the terms that are used to describe the girdle are:

Extremely thick
Very thick
Thick
Medium
Thin
Very thin
Extremely thin

Gold: Pure gold, the most malleable of all metals, is incredibly workable. The two most popular colors are white and yellow. Because pure gold is so soft and pliable, jewelers use an alloyed form known as karat gold. Alloying increases its hardness and provides a variety of different colors.

Gold content of karat gold is specified by the familiar code 14k, 18ct, ect. The K (karat) number tells us how many parts of pure gold are contained 24 parts of the alloy. Thus:
14k = 14/24% = 58% pure gold
18k = 18/24% = 75% pure gold
24k = 24/24% = 100% pure gold

Foreign manufacturers often stamp their products with three digit numbers with 1000 equaling pure gold.
14k = 585
18k = 750
24k = 1000

Graded: Refers to the process of evaluating a diamond based on gemological data and scientific measurements.

Head: Usually the center prong of a ring that holds the center gem in place.

Some terms used to describe the head are:

four prong
six prong
basket (four prong that is built into the setting)
bezel (gem is grooved or set between the rounded edges of the gold)
channel set (gem is set parallel between two straight bars of gold)

Inclusions: The internal characteristics found in a diamond, they will usually help you identify the gem.

Some of the most common inclusions are:

bruise
cavity
chip
cloud
feather
included crystal
indented natural
internal graining
pinpoint

Matching: When a specific article is matched to the exact proportions and quality of another item. Usually refers a “matched pair of diamond stud earrings”.

Measurements: Measures the overall diameter of a gem. Measurement is stated from the least to the greatest diameter and stated in millimeters. Depth is measured from the table facet to the culet.

Milky: Generally refers to the negative effect fluorescence occasionally has on a diamond. The stronger the degree of fluorescence, the greater the risk of milky ness. May also refer to the effects of a cloud inclusion that is located near the culet of a diamond. This may decrease the sparkle of a diamond.

Millimeter: The unit measure in the metric system used to determine the diameter of a diamond.

Palladium: From the platinum group of metals (PGM). Known as a “Noble Metal,” the draw to Palladium is due to its lack of degradation and oxidation over time. Palladium has a naturally silver-white color without the need of alloys or rhodium plating, and is 95% pure also making it hypoallergenic. Palladium is a light weight alternative to Platinum as it is the least dense metal in of the PGM. Note that Palladium is softer than 14K gold.

Pave Set: Diamond setting style that has small diamonds set together giving the item an all diamond look. Each diamond has tiny beads of metal holding it in. This is a very classic design and shows up very well. Because of the tiny metal prongs, this type of setting tends to catch on fabric.

Pavilion: The bottom half of a diamond, below the girdle area.

Platinum: A grayish-white, non tarnishing metal. It is rarer (and more expensive) than gold, and has a superior holding power. Jewelry platinum is actually an alloy, typically 90% platinum and 10% iridium, by weight. The iridium serves as a hardening agent. Therefore platinum that is 95% pure is generally softer than 90% pure platinum.

Point: The weight measure of a diamond. One hundred points equals one carat. ( A 0.30 carat diamond is said to be equal to 30 points or 1/3 of a carat. )

Polish: The grade given to the final polish of the external finish of a diamond.

Some of the terms used to describe the polish of a diamond:

Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor

Princess Cut: A term that generally describes a square or rectangular cut diamond with sharp corners (Square modified brilliant).

Rhodium: A metal used for plating white gold or platinum. It gives the metal a whiter look.

Rough diamond: Refers to uncut natural diamonds.

Ruby: A generally reddish gemstone. July’s Birthstone, Ruby’s are considered the most valuable of all color gemstones.

Sapphire: Generally a blue color gemstone. September’s birthstone, sapphires are found in a variety of different colors.

Shank: The bottom portion of a ring.

Shape: Describes the cutting style of a gem.

Some of the more popular shapes are:

Round Brilliant
Oval Brilliant
Pear Brilliant
Emerald Cut
Marquise Brilliant
Square Modified Brilliant (also known as Princess cut)

Sight: Refers to Debeers pre-arranged diamond distribution system. Invited clients (sightholders) are offered their assorted box of rough diamonds through Debeers Central Selling organization in London, England. There are approximately 10 sights per calendar year. The price of diamond sight is non-negotiable.

Sightholders: Refers to major diamond cutting firms, who are authorized clients of Debeers and the Central Selling Organization (CSO). There are approximately 80 sightholders worldwide.

Side Stones: Term used to describe the gems that compliment a center stone.

Sparkle: The fiery brilliance that emulates from within a diamond. Sometimes referred to as scintillation.

Symmetry: The grade given to a diamonds overall uniformity as related to its facet junctions. Symmetry has to be graded and observed under a microscope.

Some of the graded given to describe symmetry are:

Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor

Table: The largest facet on a diamond. It is located on the top of a diamond. It is the facet that receives light that enables a diamond to sparkle. It is usually described as a percentage in relation to the circumference of the diameter of a diamond.

(i.e. 60% Table size = 60% in relation to the overall diameter of the diamond)

Tanzanite: A purplish/ blue gemstone. Tanzanites have become increasing popular over the past 10 years.

Thick: Generally describes the thickness of the girdle of a diamond. It may refer to the width of a ring. (i.e. 6mm men’s ring)

Titanium: Known for its superior light weight and very good strength is an alternative metal to tungsten. Unlike tungsten, titanium is not a rare metal and is quite affordable. With a distinctive soft grey tone and weightless comfort, titanium along with tungsten both share a lack of ability to be resized. Titanium has also become a popular alternative second ring for men who have an active life style, and do not want to scratch their platinum or gold ring.

Tone: A term used to describe the lightness or darkness of the body color of a color gem.

Tungsten Carbide: Known as the most durable and scratch resistant of metals for men’s bands. Joining the next generation of men’s rings that have come to the market, tungsten carbide is formulated from a fine powder that is chemically bound together under extreme heat. It is then rigorously polished to give you a sleek, handsome, one of a kind ring. While the durability of tungsten is amazing, it is good to know that due to its strength, tungsten can never be resized. Your men’s ring will be custom made to your finger size.

Weight: The term used to evaluate a gem’s carat weight. (see carat)

Window: Term usually associated with a color stone. Window is the area you where you can see trough the gem. When looking at a gem face up, the window will be the area that is most transparent to the eye. In general, the more noticeable the widow the less desirable the gem becomess. Windows are usually found in stones that are cut too shallow.